Cake That Defies Words

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Last week at bookclub, talk turned to cakes, and in particular, those from the New Albany, Mississippi, bakery Sugaree's.

The cake-purchaser to-be was put off by the $40 price tag for a whole cake. We agreed that seemed like a lot. Then someone said, "But that caramel cake ..." and gestured her hand in such a way to fill in all the adjectives too inadequate to describe this cake.

And this phenomenon of few words was one I witnessed over and over. At bookclub, the mention of the caramel cake brought about a chorus of "ahs."

After I brought a piece to work, co-workers pointed and simply exclaimed, "caramel cake!"

So, I finally tried it myself. The yellow cake is moist, and the caramel icing so perfectly sweet it evokes all your best childhood memories. Beyond that, it's beyond words.

Sugaree's is available in Memphis, by the slice, at Miss Cordelia's, Holiday Ham, and Cafe Palladio, and, in Collierville at Square Beans.

Some Sugaree's selections are part of the dessert menus at the Beauty Shop and Jim's Place Grille. You can also buy the cakes online.

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